[REVIEW] SOME BY MI AHA, BHA, PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum (Before and After) — DEWILDESALHAB武士

• Price (use this link): 12.92$ (If you use my code: DEWILDE you can get up to 5% off on any YesStyle purchase at checkout)

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• Texture: A bit oilier than a dry oil

• What you get: 50 mL

• Cruelty-free: No

Ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Emollient), Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Emollient), Centella Asiatica Extract (14.51%), Purified Water, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Glycerin, Propanediol (Solvent + Moisturizer), Butylene Glycol (Solvent + Moisturizer), Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent), Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water (10,000Ppm), Niacinamide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid (7500Ppb), Sodium Lactate (17500Ppb) (pH Buffer + Moisturizer), Sodium Pca (7500Ppb) (Natural moisturizer), Glycolic Acid (3000Ppb), Lactic Acid (3000Ppb), Malic Acid (3000Ppb), Pyruvic Acid (500Ppb), Tartaric Acid (100Pppm), Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract (100 Ppm), Lactobionic Acid (100 Ppm), Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract, Syringa Vulgaris Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Angelica Keiskei Extract, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Madecassoside, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Sodium Chloride (Viscosity Control), Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Pearl Powder, Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Control + Emulsion stabilzing), Pentylene Glycol (Solvent + Moisturizer), Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/ Leaf Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Frankincense Oil, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Disodium Edta (Chelating), Caprylyl Glycol (Moisturizer + Emollient), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative)

🍏Interesting Ingredients:

Centella Asiatica Extract (14.51%): Wound healing (promotes collagen production) + hypertrophic scar healing properties in particular

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil: Antioxidant + Emollient 🔴*Might not be suitable for acne-prone skin: a couple of studies found a correlation between Oleic Acid (The main fatty acid component of olive oil) and acne formation.

Glycerine: Widely used as a quality Hydrator (occurs naturally in the skin and its chemical structure attracts water). You can find this ingredient in most good skin-replenishing products.

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water (10,000Ppm): Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil: is known to have anti-acne properties (due to being Antibacterial, Antifungal, and Antiviral). The water extract is not well researched when it comes to its topical application on the skin, usually, water extracts of plants have the same properties of their oil counterpart but in less potent forms.

Niacinamide: Anti-aging (promotes collagen production and Ceramides synthesis) + Antioxidant (Against UV-induced photocarcinogenesis and photo immunosuppression) + Anti-inflammatory (reductions in the total sebaceous creation of lipids; overproduction is one of the causes of acne)

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green tea): Antioxidant (Polyphenol) + Anti-inflammatory (Polyphenol) + Antimicrobial (Catechins)

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract: Antioxidant (Flavonoids baicalein, Oroxylin A, and Wogonin) + Anti-inflammatory (Inhibits substances and growth factor related to macrophage proliferation) + Antimicrobial (flavonoids and phenolic acids) + Prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin is formed activity of Tyrosinase)

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract (Japanese Knotweed): Prevents hyper-pigmentation (Inhibits Melanin forming activity of Tyrosinase) + Antimicrobial ( inhibits bacterial and fungi proliferation) + Antioxidant (Resveratrol BT) + Anti-inflammatory (Resveratrol BT)

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract: Prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin forming activity of Tyrosinase)

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract: Anti-inflammatory (Terpenes/Flavonoids/α-bisabolol  inhibit inflammatory pathways) + Wound Healing

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract: Anti-inflammatory (Rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, and carnosol, exhibit anti-inflammatory activities in particular acne-causing pathogens response) + Antioxidant (Rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid)

Citric Acid + Glycolic Acid (3000Ppb) + Lactic Acid (3000Ppb) + Malic Acid (3000Ppb) + Tartaric Acid (100Pppm): All of these are forms of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), which are a class of acids that reduce cell adhesion in the top layer of the skin (decrease cellular bond between corneocytes) which leads to an exfoliating effect. AHAs have also been shown to increase the production of mucopolysaccharides and collagen in the skin. [Anti-Acne + Anti-Aging + Brightening + Antioxidative]

Pyruvic Acid (500Ppb)

Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract (100 Ppm): Antioxidant (Polyphenols) + Anti-inflammatory (Flavonoids)

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Lactobionic Acid (100 Ppm): A next-generation AHA (called PHA, Polyhydroxy Acids), data suggest it is less likely to irritate the skin as the molecules it is composed of are bigger

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract: Not enough research concerning topical application.

Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract: Antimicrobial + Antifungal + Antioxidant

Syringa Vulgaris Extract: Antioxidant + Anti-inflammatory

Houttuynia Cordata Extract:  Antibiotic + Anti-inflammatory + Anti-oxidative + has commonly been used in Eastern Asian countries such as Japan as a topical treatment against puss-containing skin diseases including furuncle due to its high anti-microbial activity.

Angelica Keiskei Extract: Could potentially prevent hyperpigmentation (Decreases melanin-forming activity of Tyrosinase)

Althaea Officinalis Root Extract: Not enough research concerning topical application.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract: Anti-inflammatory (Rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, and carnosol, exhibit anti-inflammatory activities, in particular, acne-causing pathogen response) + Antioxidant (Rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid)

Madecassoside: Derivative of Centella Asiatica. Acts as an Antioxidant

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil: Antioxidant + Could potentially prevent hyperpigmentation

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil: Antioxidant (Vitamin E, Ferulic Acid, and Oryzanol) + Emollient (Polysaccharides and Omega-3 fatty acids)

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Seed Oil: Green tea leaf extract is known to be a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial compound, but there is a difference between the leaf and seed extracts of plants. Green tea seed oil is not well researched when it comes to its topical application on the skin, but since seeds typically have some of the properties of the plants that they birth, this is probably a promising ingredient with very similar properties to that of its leaf constituent.

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil: Antioxidant (Vitamin E & Carotenoids) + Emollient (Fatty Acids)

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil: Contains vitamin E, A, and monounsaturated fatty acids. These compounds act as antioxidants and moisturizers, but there isn’t enough research concerning the topical application of this oil on the skin to draw any sound claims.

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil (Meadowfoam): Emollient + Antioxidant

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract: Antioxidant (polyphenols) + Anti-inflammatory + Wound healing

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract: Antibacterial + Antifungal + Anti-inflammatory

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract: Antifungal  (hydroxycoumarin) + Anti-inflammatory (Monoterpenes)

Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract: Not enough studies are made on its topical application to the skin.

Pearl Powder: Might potentially help with wound healing as it contains elements (calcium carbonate, amino acids, and trace elements, etc.,) that are nutritious to cells (this study). But not enough studies are made on its topical application to the skin.

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil: Antioxidant + Source of vitamins A, C, and E + 🔴Contains Oleic acid, which is a good emollient, but some studies found a correlation between it and acne formation. Do note however that the studies were made on higher amounts of Oleic Acid than those present in Moringa Oleifera.

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract (Tulsi): 🔴[Not enough research]

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/ Leaf Extract: Wound healing + Antioxidant + Anti-bacterial + Anti-inflammatory

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil: Antibacterial + Antioxidant + Potentially Anti-acne (it reduces sebum production)

Frankincense Oil: Anti-inflammatory (Expression of inflammatory proteins are lowered) + 🔴Decreases expression of Collagen type III - the article suggests that this ability might decreases scar formation or wound persistence, however, conflicting data exists: the precise operation of Collagen type III during wound healing is not well known, and while it has been proven that a decrease in its expression does decrease wound persistence (in mice, in this article), data suggests this decrease might lead to an accumulation of scar tissue (In the mice article, and also here). Do note that this ingredient is present in very low concentration in this formulation*

Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil: Antimicrobial + Antioxidant

🤔Questionable Ingredients:

🍺Alcohol: A lot of people assimilate alcohol and fragrances in skincare to dehydration and irritation. I would recommend that you watch this video: “Is Alcohol Safe in Skincare Products?” (by Liah Yoo, who worked at Korea's largest beauty company, AmorePacific and now also has her own brand: KraveBeauty) and consult the links provided in the info box which refer to published scientific studies and articles. The main point is: yes, alcohol and fragrance can be very stripping and irritating to the skin, but it all depends on how they are used and combined in the final formulation and of their ratio, the reactions they have with other ingredients, etc…

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil + Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil + Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil: Natural Fragrances + Some have antibacterial and anti-acne claims, but there isn’t enough research on essential oils in general when it comes to topical skin application. Some types of skins easily get irritated by essential oils, others don’t react in any way if you’re interested, I’d recommend reading this blog post [Are Essential Oils in Skin Care Harmful or Helpful?] by The Klog for more info.

‘‘Highly concentrated tea tree serum that changes the condition of your skin in just 30 days!’’ I have completely finished this serum, have used it for about 50 days, so all the claims I’m commenting on have been thoroughly tested in a period longer than the one advertised.

1.Exfoliates dead skin cells without irritating skin: As mentioned in the ''interesting ingredients'' segment above, the formulation contains a multitude of well-researched AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids, here the Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, and Tartaric Acid), some BHAs, and one PHA (Polyhydroxy acids, here the Lactobionic Acid) that all have studies, research, and clinical trials to back up their exfoliation claims and effects. AHAs work on the surface to loosen up dead skin (they are water-soluble), and BHAs penetrate deeper (they are oil-soluble) into the layers of the skin to unclog pores. As for PHAs, they have a larger molecular structure that presumably serves to make them gentler and less sensitizing as they do not penetrate the skin as much as AHAs. Since this serum has so many exfoliating ingredients, you'd expect it to be a wonderful exfoliating product right? The truth is, it is exfoliating but in a very dull average way. Exfoliation usually also leads to acne attenuation and scar and skin brightening, which are things I have not really noticed a change in, over the entire course of time I was using this product. My personal guess is that first of all: the main Exfoliators are AHAs and PHAs, and these are water-soluble, while the majority of the components of the serum are oils. No matter how much you shake the consistency, oil will not mix with the water counterparts of this serum, which is bound to really limit the penetrative power of the exfoliants since there will essentially be layers of oil between them and your skin. Moreover, the only exfoliant which should be oil-soluble - the BHA they claim to have - is Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract. This isn't a really well-researched ingredient, and there aren't clinical trials to prove that it is a potent BHA. Furthermore, it's present in lower concentrations than the rest of the exfoliating chemicals. The point is, on paper this should be an exfoliating serum, and it probably is up to a level, but the formulation doesn't allow for optimal absorption and results. What I was left with was disappointment, and the slight satisfaction that at least my skin did not get irritated. If you’re really looking for exfoliation, try the toner instead.

2.Strengthens skin barrier: The majority of the ingredients have emollient, antioxidative, and anti-inflammatory properties, which are all directly linked to improving the skin barrier, so yes, this definitely will strengthen your skin barrier if that is something you’re concerned about. My skin noticeably became softer and looked healthier, but that’s probably the only positive thing I noticed happening.

3.Soothes problematic and irritated skin: I don’t suffer from particularly irritated skin, if my skin does get irritated from a product or from an allergy, I usually use the Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream which is specifically formulated to target these kinds of problems, rather than a skincare product that claims to encompass an array of solutions to divergent issues like this serum. I don’t really know what would qualify as ‘problematic skin’ but I guess acne is a good fit. I had active acne prior to using this product - which is why I started using it - and while the serum did not further irritate it, it also did almost nothing to diminish. The only difference I saw was in the number of new breakouts I would get: it diminished the quantity but did nothing to the frequency as I still got new ones.

4.Locks in moisture with dual-layer: It does lock in moisture, but not to an incredible level, this is not a moisturizing serum. If you have dry skin this is definitely not enough to moisturize it, but it does do an average job.

5.Controls excessive sebum production: I have an oily T-zone and the way I tell whether a product is controlling sebum production is by just touching my nose area. My sebum levels did not change while I was using this product, but since it did somehow lower the number of breakouts I got during this period, it probably does control excessive sebum, but not to an incredible degree.

The SOME BY MI AHA, BHA, PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum isn't a ‘bad’ product: it didn’t break me out, didn’t irritate my skin, and I did see some positive results as mentioned above; mainly an increase in hydration and moisture as well as a slight decrease in acne breakouts. But the cons outweigh the pros for me. If you’re looking for anti-acne products, check this post out instead: [10] Anti-Acne products that actually work + A Skincare routine.

This product is hyped up due to the popularity of the ‘30 days miracle toner’ which gave birth to this whole line. I tested out the toner and here’s the full in-depth review, but let’s just say it’s a thousand times better than this serum. If you’re looking for an affordable exfoliating product that works, forget the serum, your money is better spent on the toner instead.

All of that taken into consideration, since the price point is quite low compared to other products that contain as many antioxidants, I would still recommend this serum, but only incorporated into a skincare routine, to act as an antioxidative serum, and not for people with oily skin. But again, if I were you I would not go out of my way to buy it. I’ll personally will probably never buy this again as there are many more interesting products on the market.

+PROS:

1. Hydrates/moisturizes

2. Potent antioxidant

3. I personally like the smell

4. Good price

-CONS:

1. Texture is annoying for people with oily skin, even if you shake it a lot

2. Needs to be shaken before used

3. Doesn’t achieve a lot of its claims

4. Saw almost no real results after using it for 50 days

5. Had mediocre results when it came to fighting my acne

6. Doesn’t get easily absorbed

   🚛Score: 2.9/5 --- Not bad, not good either. A lot of better products out there when it comes to anti-acne care. If this had been marketed and advertised as a simple, antioxidative, mildly hydrating serum, it would have probably gotten a higher score but I feel like the product is misleading and I really get annoyed with products that don’t fulfill the majority of their claims.

+AMAZON

+Yesstyle: this link

(If you use my code: DEWILDE you can get up to 5% off on any Yesstyle purchase at checkout)